Every Body is Different
There's no ideal body shape for a suit. Try different cuts, move around and see what feels comfortable on you.
The secret to looking great isn't changing your body; it's choosing the right suit.
If You're Tall and Slim
What works: You can carry most styles well. Use horizontal elements to add visual weight, wider lapels, double-breasted jackets, patterned fabrics like checks or windowpane.
Watch for: Jackets that are too short. Make sure your jacket covers your seat and your shirt cuffs show properly. Trousers should break gently on your shoes, not pool at the ankles.
Pro tip: A good waistcoat adds bulk to your torso and creates a more proportioned silhouette.
Tall and slim is actually one of the easier shapes to fit; we just need to make sure the proportions are right.
If You're Short or Petite
What works: Clean, vertical lines elongate your frame. Slim-fit suits, single-breasted jackets, and narrow lapels create length. Keep accessories minimal and streamlined.
Watch for: Oversized jackets that swamp you. Too much break in the trousers. Chunky patterns that overwhelm your frame.
Pro tip: Make sure your jacket hits at exactly the right point on your hips, too long and you look shorter, too short and it looks wrong. Get this right and you'll be surprised how tall you appear.
Napoleon was 5'6" and commanded armies. Looking powerful isn't about height; it's about fit.
If You're Broad or Athletic
What works: Structured shoulders, single-breasted styles, and dark colours create a streamlined look. Slim-fit (not skinny) trousers balance your proportions.
Watch for: Jackets that pull across the chest when buttoned. Too much padding in the shoulders. Trousers that are tight on the thighs.
Pro tip: Often you'll need a larger size for your chest and shoulders, then tailor the waist. This is where custom made really shines.
Athletic builds look amazing in suits, you just need room where you need it and shape where it matters.
If You Carry Weight Around the Middle
What works: Structured jackets that create shape. A waistcoat that fits properly (not too tight). Dark colours and subtle patterns. Single-breasted styles with a low button stance.
Watch for: Pulling at the buttons. Jackets that are too short. Waistcoats that strain or ride up.
Pro tip: A well-fitted waistcoat actually helps by smoothing your silhouette and adding structure. But it must fit properly, too tight looks worse than no waistcoat.
The right suit creates shape and draws attention to your best features. This is about proportion, not hiding.
If You Have Uneven Shoulders or Posture Quirks
What works: Custom Made. Seriously. If one shoulder is higher than the other, or you have a curved spine, or any asymmetry, custom made handles it.
Watch for: Off-the-peg suits that sit unevenly. Collar gaps at the back. Sleeves that hang differently on each side.
Pro tip: If standard sizes don't feel right, try different cuts and discuss Made-to-Order. What can be achieved needs assessing rather than assuming it will resolve every concern.
This is exactly why I offer custom made. Some bodies need it, and the difference is remarkable.
The Golden Rules for Everyone
Regardless of body type, these always apply:
• Shoulders must fit: This is non-negotiable. The shoulder seam should hit right at your shoulder point.
• Jacket length matters: Your jacket should cover your seat but not be so long it shortens your legs.
• The chest should close without pulling: If the button strains, it's too tight.
• Trousers should fit the waist comfortably: You'll be wearing these all day, probably eating a big meal. Give yourself room.
• You should feel confident: If you're uncomfortable, you'll look uncomfortable. Trust your instincts.